Port Soller

Three years in Europe now, and this was our first planned ‘relaxing’ holiday. Usually it’s just not our thing. Maybe we are getting old or less adventurous with two kids, but this was much needed. After an Irish summer for the record books (the bad record books – 90% of the days were overcast and 70% had precipitation) we needed some sun. We got a good dose back in the US in July, but Bridget did some great forecasting in late July and booked a relaxing, sunny, beach holiday for us. We were a little skeptical – even headed out on the trip – that we would enjoy the ‘relaxing’, but the verdict is unanimous – great trip.

I will enter a couple select photos here to wet your appetite, but our Picasa web album – with captions this time – has the full range and can act as a good summary of the trip itself. Everyone already knows I totally rely on spell check – Picasa does not spell check your captions – so don’t feel the need to pointout or snicker at every spelling mistake. Although I guess by asking you not to, you now will.

You might argue that we didn’t do a lot of relaxing on this trip, but for us relaxing really meant we went without a single guide book, and never looked at one. A two page article in a travel magazine is the only thing Bridget used. And a verbal recommendation of the destination from friends. A few times there was that feeling in the back of your head that you might be missing something, that if you had a guide book you would catch something more amazing than you were doing at the time, but as a whole, the island of Mallorica, and the village of Port Soller just didn’t have that much. We just stumbled into everything. Or the right things. Or what we liked. I don’t know, I don’t have a guide book to compare to.

Anyway, the trip was wonderful. The boys still got up at 6am, Emmet still screeched like a banshee many times a day, and 30 min of every day was occupied in applying sun screen – but we have the pictures to remind us there were way more good times.

The trip started off a bit rocky when the train broke down on the way out of Plama. 100-year-old trains don’t have air conditioning or bathrooms, but we were stuck on there for an hour and a half before, through pantomime, they got us off the train for a waiting bus. No idea what was wrong with the train. We missed one of the main reasons we choose Soller – the grand old train entrance through the mountains! After that delay we arrived too late to meet the manager for the apartment we rented for the trip and had to make four calls to finally find our way to meet her friend, to get the keys, to get into the apartment. Luckily we were able to sleep it off.

The next four days were a blur of beach, mountain walks, beach, food finding (for cooking in apartment and dining out), and um… beach. I will forgo our usual day-by-day run down and give you the highlights.

Silas really loves swimming. Water-wings still (he’s only three!), but fearless in the water and kicks his legs and arms forever – really getting somewhere. There was a diving/jumping platform about 100 yards out in the bay and Silas swam all the way out and back. (I was following closely of course, but not helping propel a single bit) Salt water was a bit of a problem though. Tiniest bit in my eye and I couldn’t see for several minutes, and Silas was similar, but just no rowdy water sports for us then.

The mornings actually came to a routine. Silas and Emmet up at 6:45 as usual. Bridget would get up with them and prepare/shop for breakfast. It was hot so we’d eat half dressed, then start our 30 min ritual of sunscreen application. Bridget claimed she could get she, Silas, and Emmet covered in the amount of time it took me to cover myself – but I think it was a slight exaggeration. After the sunscreen, we’d gather one or two choice beach toys and to the beach. Our apartment was on the backside of a building that was separated from the beach only by a 20-foot promenade. Once the front door was open, Silas would tear off for the water, break neck speed – seeing a 3 year old running with total abandon like that is very cute.

We spent the good part of a whole day ‘hiking’. It was with the buggy, because it was too hot to carry Emmet and Silas for long, and too far for Silas to hike the entire thing. This proved to be a bit difficult because we went on several trails that were clearly not buggy friendly, but made due. A few wrong turns (poorly signposted), but great scenery. We also picked figs, lemons, limes, grapes, and an almond from trees that overhang the road on the trip. Bridget made lemonade back at the apartment. The rest was put to good use on the walk.

Food was good. Some tasty meals by Bridget in the apartment, and a couple good meals out. The semi-local foods we had were ice cream made there in the town – a hit with all, and ‘black’ piaea – a very tasty piaea, but not nearly as black as we thought it would be – the blackness (or more accuratly, slight brown-ness) of it coming from squid ink. Bridget leafed through a book in one of the stores and found that there was a real local food – pickled sea fennel – and bought some which we brought home (opened and drained of liquid because no liquids in carry on luggage – and yes, we made the five day trip on one 10kg carry on a piece) and will be trying later this week.

We rented a paddle boat once – without attached slide (Silas’ choice, but the rest of the trip then he wanted to rent another – with slide this time) – it was nice and peaceful to paddle a bit around the large bay and swim in your own private area of the bay. Bridget said this was her favorite part of the trip.

My favorite part was the old train ride back through the mountains. The cool breeze in to the window on the hot day, being able to stick your head out the window, and the mountainous scenery was just great. I suspect (or project) that this was Silas’s favorite too.
Only two handfuls of sand in the mouth. That we know of.

After the old train trip from Soller back to Palma (the main city and airport location of the island) – we had the afternoon to wander around Palma, where we found loads of nice sights (huge cathedral, fountains, sculpture, loads of Spanish equivalent art nuvou buildings, botanical gardens) before the bus to the airport and home again.

I guess that’s about it (Bridget may help me edit this later if I forgot something major). Trip was great. Timing perfect. I would advise everyone hire Bridget as a travel planner. Sorry she’s not available as a travel companion!